#1 Crush

by Jennifer Hess on November 14, 2008

in Suzanne Goin, sauces

Dinner:  November 13, 2008

Some people dream of dining at the French Laundry, Chez Panisse, or El Bulli, but honestly, I think my dream restaurant dinner would be at Lucques. I mean, Suzanne Goin just gets it, and every main dish or side or sauce that I’ve made, either direct from her book or inspired by it, has been a major hit.

nuts

This Romesco, for instance, almost didn’t make it to our plates because after my first taste of it, I couldn’t stop scooping it out of the food processor by the spoonful. All I could think about this morning was “man, I wish I had some Romesco.” It might have replaced harissa as my latest food crush.

chiles+tomatoes

The rest of the meal was simple: crisp roasted potatoes, some green leaves, sautéed Spanish mackerel filets with a squeeze of lemon juice, but the Romesco was the star. I want to put it on everything. I bet you will, too.

Romesco (adapted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques by Suzanne Goin)

5 Ancho chiles (we were out, so I substituted Guajillos)
2 T raw almonds
2T blanched hazelnuts (forgot to blanch mine – oops)
1 ¼ c extra virgin olive oil (I didn’t measure. Don’t act like you’re surprised.)
1 slice country bread, about 1 inch thick (I used two slices of Seven Stars multigrain)
1/3 cup canned San Marzano tomatoes
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 T chopped flat leaf parsley
½ lemon for juicing (we had more Meyers than regular lemons, so I used one of those)
Kosher salt

Preheat the oven to 375. Soak the chiles in hot water for about 15 minutes, then seed and stem them. Spread the nuts on a baking sheet and toast them for 8-10 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside. Fry the bread in a bit of the olive oil, then let it cool and cut into cubes. Return the pan to the stove, heat the chiles for about 2 minutes, then add the tomatoes. Cook them until they break down and the juices are reduced, then turn off the heat and set aside.

Pulse the nuts, bread and garlic in a food processor, then add the chile and tomato mixture and pulse again to combine. Pour in more olive oil while the machine is running until you have the texture you want. Taste for seasoning, then stir in the lemon juice and parsley.

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cook eat FRET - o8/o9
January 4, 2009 at 10:07 pm

{ 12 comments… read them below or add one }

1 claudia (cook eat FRET) November 14, 2008 at 2:36 pm

making it tonight

2 Haley November 14, 2008 at 2:37 pm

my crush is developing before i’ve even tasted it! sounds to die for!

3 Marcos Castrillon November 14, 2008 at 2:56 pm

Like always, that looks yummy.
The romesco looks a bit dense, though. And I always find weird how US filleted mackerel lacks the beautiful tiger stripes of the whole fish.
Anyway, did you watch Bourdain’s episode on Spain? Anthony was enthralled by what it probably is the best way to eat romesco, as a dipping sauce for freshly grilled calçots (green sprouted onions).
If you still have a garden you should really consider planting some onions, cut the tops, bury them and let them regrow as calçots.
Heavenly stuff, I swear.

4 Marie November 14, 2008 at 5:27 pm

Yum. I love anchos. And any paste with nuts.

Thees weekend, man!

5 Marie November 14, 2008 at 5:32 pm

Pee Ess: the mackerel looks gorgeous, btw – and the sliced roasted potatoes with fish on top made me miss my mom…

6 Marie November 14, 2008 at 5:35 pm

Sorry! me again. Question for Marcos: you really cut the tops off onions…and cut the green, leafy leaf, and plant it???

7 Sarah November 14, 2008 at 6:14 pm

Interesting! I lived in Spain years ago and never had romesco, what a shame! Just a couple of days ago Jacques Pepin was making it on TV, I thought it would overpower the striped bass he put it on, what do you think?

8 Anita / Married ...with Dinner November 14, 2008 at 8:47 pm

You obviously need to come out to California. We’ll meet you in L.A. and go to Lucques together. :)

9 Rhonda November 16, 2008 at 9:35 pm

That does look delicious, I don’t know if I could handle all the chiles, but I could adapt it to my wussy palate.

10 Marcos Castrillón November 17, 2008 at 4:50 pm

To Marie:
Not me, that’s a Catalonian tradition and I’m Galician. But yeah, they do cut the top of the onion and then the bulb (not the leaves) is planted again.
By doing so, the onions grow wildly, kinda like leeks and they develop a milder taste. During spring, many catalonians gather in the family masías (farms) and party, with wine and grilled calçots (the overgrown onions) as the centerpiece of the feast.
They are very, VERY messy to eat, though.
The whole process was shown in this Season’s Spain episode in Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations.
I’m still mad the punk has visited most of Spain but Galicia, though.

11 april November 17, 2008 at 8:31 pm

i also have the sunday suppers cookbook and everything i make is incredible. my husband took me to lucques for my birthday this year and it was just as good as i dreamed! it is definitely worth the trip!

12 Tine Nielsen December 3, 2008 at 2:37 pm

Hi Jen,

I have read your blog for a while and gotten many inspirational ideas!
Last night I made the romesco and it was delicious!!! Thank you so much for sharing your recipe!

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