From the category archives:

onions

Gifts from the sea

by Jennifer Hess on June 4, 2008

Dinner:  June 3, 2008

One of the things I love most about seafood is that when you get good, super-fresh stuff, you don’t need to do too much to it. A little basic seasoning, a quick cooking method, perhaps a little sauce or something to go alongside and you’ve got a great meal. It almost feels like cheating.

Mike brought home a gorgeous piece of bluefish yesterday, which got a quick rubdown with salt and olive oil before going on the grill. To go with it, I packeted slices of Yukon Gold potato in foil (which were also cooked on the grill), mixed up a garlicky lemon mayo, and quickly pickled some thinly sliced red onions with salt and sherry vinegar. I finished our plates with a little baby arugula, both for color and a fresh, peppery bite.

pre-dinner bite

We had time to fit even more seafood into our evening - some oysters we picked up from Matunuck at the Hope High farmers’ market over the weekend, which were shucked, soaked in buttermilk, then dipped in flour and fried until crisp and golden. They were great to nibble on while the rest of our meal came together, and needed just a sprinkling of flaky Maldon salt after they came out of the hot oil - perfect little bites of salty-sweet-slightly briny goodness. This time of year, this is how I love to eat.

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The ring’s the thing

by Jennifer Hess on May 15, 2008

I’ve talked before about how sometimes what you serve on the side of your dinner plate is the star of the meal, and this is another one of those times. Think onion rings: thin, light, crisp, with a good kick of spice, these are a far cry from those overly breaded, greasy rings served in so many restaurants, and they’re easy to make at home. The two things to remember here are to have everything ready to go before you start, and to make them just before you’ll be serving them so they stay perfectly crisp.

For two good sized servings, you’ll need:

a big bowl
1 medium red onion
flaky sea salt (I used Maldon)
Sriracha or other hot chile sauce
a zip-top bag
about 1/2 cup of unbleached white flour
vegetable oil
a pot with high sides
a spider
a tray or plate lined with paper towels

Peel the onion and slice it into thin rings. Separate the rings and place them into your bowl, then give them a healthy sprinkling of salt and as much Sriracha as you like. Toss until the onions are well coated, and set aside for 20 minutes or so, until the onions are soft and have given up much of their liquid.

Pour oil an inch or two deep into the pot and heat until shimmering. Add flour to the zip-top bag. Remove the softened onions in batches, gently squeezing out the moisture with your hands, and add them to the flour a few at a time, tossing to coat. Shake off the excess flour and CAREFULLY lower the onions into the hot oil, frying them in batches until they are crisp and golden. Using your spider, remove the rings to the paper towel-lined plate to drain, sprinkling a bit of flaky salt on top of each batch you remove.

Dinner:  May 14, 2008

Serve hot alongside your favorite steak, burger, or barbecue, with a frosty beverage alongside. Feel the love.

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Springing forward, falling behind

by Jennifer Hess on March 5, 2008

Life is flying by right now, with plans being finalized, dates being nailed down, reservations made and notices given. It’s a really exciting time for us, and looking at the photos of what will be our new home, thinking about furnishing it, decorating it, and taking our new kitchen for a spin puts the biggest smile on my face, but I have to admit that at times, it’s a bit overwhelming. I mean, there’s still our life here to consider – work and errands and keeping up with friends, trying to cull and pack and still find time to do the things we want to do before we say goodbye to New York City for a while. I’ve fallen behind on email and blog reading, and this week I have even had a heck of a time getting up the energy to deal with dinner. I mean, we shopped, I wrote up a meal plan, it’s all mapped out but honestly, what I’ve wanted to do more than anything is to just sit out on the stoop or in the back yard with a glass of wine, breathing in the early spring air, absorbing the sights and sounds and smells of what has been our home for the last three and a half years.

moutarde

The March issue of Gourmet sat unread on the sofa for days before I finally tossed it into my tote bag in frustration, vowing that I would make time to crack it open on my commute home from work. When I finally did I found about 15 things that I wanted to cook pretty much immediately, but the recipe I couldn’t wait to show Mike was for an Onion Tart With Mustard and Fennel.

Teamwork meals have been working well for us lately, and this was no exception. Mike prepared the tart dough according to the recipe and I riffed on the filling, caramelizing three baseball-sized red onions and one large bulb of fennel, all sliced thinly, in a mixture of butter and olive oil. I added some fennel seeds that I had ground in a mortar and pestle, as well as a teaspoon of dried Herbes de Provence. I did spread a layer of Dijon mustard over the tart dough as in the Gourmet recipe, and when the tart came out of the oven after baking for half an hour I sprinkled some fennel fronds on top.

Dinner:  March 4, 2008

The crust was spectacular – it cooked beautifully and evenly, and it was light and buttery. Mike was delighted at how well it turned out and how easy it was to put together, and he’s already thinking of variations on the theme. I was pleased with the filling, too. I loved the bite of mustard under the caramelized onion and fennel mixture, though I think I might use a soft goat cheese next time instead of the parmesan – the flavor got a little buried under the layers of fennel-y goodness. But overall, this was a win, and the crust is definitely something we’ll pull out again and use with whatever is in season.

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